A tutored wine tasting of two Rioja Tempranillo: Discover our Tasting Notes

Isabelle Author

We compare two vintages and styles from the same producer, LAN Bodega. Rioja Crianza 2020 and Rioja Gran Reserva 2016. Did our tasting notes match?

“It’s Pinot Noir’s cousin,” my friend said while introducing me to this new varietal wine.

>> New to me, obviously.

It was the first time I tasted a Rioja wine while I was still working in Burgundy.

While living in Dijon, I had been blessed to taste many styles of Pinot Noir so I wasn’t sure what to expect.

It must have been a pleasant experience because Tempranillo became one of my favorites.

Back Labels—Decrypted is a free monthly online wine-tasting event led by wine-tasting coach Dr. Isabelle Lesschaeve.

Here's a summary of the participant's experience at the latest session.

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Discovering Tempranillo sensory profile

Tempranillo variety: An early “ripener”

Like its French cousin, Tempranillo is an early ripening variety. Actually, the name comes from the Spanish word “temprano,” which means early.

Depending on its region of production, the name changes to “Tinto del Toro” in the Toro region or “Tinto del Pais” in the Ribera del Duero region.

The latter is another great region to explore for its 100% Tempranillo wines.

Tempranillo's wine style is multifaceted, from very fruit-forward wines to complex flavors developing during aging. 

And it was the focus of a tasting I hosted with my online community.

We compared two vintages and styles from the same producer, LAN Bodega.

• LAN Rioja Crianza 2020

• LAN Rioja Gran Reserva 2016

Some participants tasted similar wine styles from different producers, which allowed us to learn more about the stylistic differences between the Crianza and Gran Reserva.

The sensory tasting method

Tasting wine in a comparative tasting set-up is quite effective. It helps the tasters identify more nuances differentiating two wine styles.

In a comparative wine tasting, we assess the two wines side-by-side to detect subtle nuances:

• We focus on the aromas, all the perceptions perceived by smelling the wine, and
• Then, we focus our attention on the perceptions while sipping or swallowing the wines.
  

<< Check a behind the scene video >>

This well-established sensory approach helps participants focus on similarities and differences rather than trying to write the “perfect” tasting notes.

We use the Wine Aroma Wheel to categorize the aromatics into generic families (fruity, woody) and then try to become more specific, guided by the suggested subcategories on the wheel.

Therefore, a comparative tasting is not so much about the wines and their stories (of course, that’s part of it). 

==>It’s about the tasters and allowing them to have enjoyable sensory discoveries.

Let’s look at the participants' tasting notes and see how they align with or diverge from the reviews and back labels describing these same wines.

A note on the Rioja appellations

Rioja wines typically involve aging both in wood barrels and bottles.

• Crianza appellation requires two years of aging, including one year in wood barrels/casks;

• Reserva requires three years of aging, including one year in wood;

• Gran Reserva requires five years of aging, including three years in wood.

While we tasted wines from different producers, we could comment on the differences we experienced between a Crianza and Reserva or Gran Reserva.

Participants Tasting Notes of Rioja Tempranillo

The Crianza style was generally more fruity, with cherry. 

• Overall, the aromatic intensity was lower than that of the older wine. 
• Some participants noticed fermentation-like aromas, like visiting a winery cellar or even Marmite. 
• Other aromas noted were earthy or tea-like. 
• The sourness and alcohol perceptions were quite intense for some participants; one person described it as “edgy” and others as “fresher.” 
• The perceived sourness indeed contributes to these impressions.
• Overall, the mouthfeel was smoother than for the other wine style.
  

The Reserva/Gran Reserva had an overall aromatic intensity that was described as strong.

• With many aromas: dark berries, dried herbs, spices, chocolate, dried fruits, licorice, leather, and tobacco. 
• The mouthfeel was drier. 
• This wine evoked a fig pastry to one of the tasters, with aromas of vanilla and dried or cooked fruits.
• One participant described this wine as more integrated or balanced. I like the term integrated.
  To me, it means that nothing “sticks out”, which is often the signature of a pleasant wine to drink.

Decrypting the reviews

While there were overlaps in the tasting notes, particularly regarding cherry flavors and tannins' texture, participants noted more earthy and woody characteristics.

In contrast, the reviews included a broader range of descriptors, including floral, berries, licorice, vanilla, and cinnamon.

The discrepancies highlight the individuality of tasting experiences, which are influenced by personal perception, the context, and the conditions under which the wines were tasted.

Have you ever tasted tempranillo wines.
Which style do you enjoy the most and why?

Let us know in a comment below.

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Published December 12, 2024.

Categories: : wine aroma

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